Misogi

Well, I'm gearing up for my move to Santa Monica on Friday. I'm pretty excited! Besides the apartment itself and the location, it will just be nice to not feel like a transient for a little while.
Last Saturday was a full weekend in itself. I woke up before the sun to go meet a couple guys for my first attempt at surfing. Since I'm not much of a morning person, that was an accomplishment in itself. I have to say it was well worth it, though. With the sun just barely coming up, I was wearing black neoprene, lying on top of a fiberglass plank, and paddling out into the Pacific Ocean.
The first few times people told me that surfing was incredibly hard, I dismissed it. It looks so easy on TV, right? I thought maybe those people just weren't very coordinated or athletic. After a few more people (whose athleticism and coordination I did not question) told me the same story, I started to believe it. There was still a part of me that didn't quite understand what exactly was so hard about it, though. I'm in pretty good shape, and I skateboarded for about 4 years in my early teens. Isn't that preparation enough? The only thing I was really afraid of was the cold water (which, as it turns out, wasn't cold at all with the wetsuit).

A website I just read had a great analogy. Imagine skateboarding or snowboarding during an earthquake. It's not enough to just be able to balance on a moving board...the surface beneath you is actually moving, too! I also discovered that I may be in good shape, but that doesn't help if your movements are inefficient. In the first 20 or 30 minutes, I was utterly exhausted from paddling and fighting the waves. Meanwhile, guys with gray beards were whizzing by me like dolphins. I tend to think in analogies and relationships between different activities, and I see a lot of aikido in this. In particular, Saotome Sensei mentions in one of his books the process of learning to use a sword correctly. At first, you push the sword around with your muscles and get tired quickly. Over time and with many, many repititions, you learn to use the weight of the sword in the most efficient manner possible. In Japanese, the term is "misogi," which I've mostly seen translated as "ritual purification." By performing the ritual over and over, the sword itself teaches your body by purifying your movements.

I expended so much effort just trying to stay balanced on the surfboard while paddling and sitting that I exhausted myself, not to mention my horrible paddle-stroke. Over the course of a couple hours, I only really attempted to catch 4 waves. The process went something like this:
Wave #1: Complete disaster. I'm not really sure what happened, but I ended up swallowing a lot of salt water and the fin broke off of the board. I was borrowing this board from someone I just met that morning, so I felt awful. The screw holding the fin on may just have been loose, but I still feel like it was probably somehow my fault. I couldn't really surf with that board anymore, so I just paddled around for a while until my two friends caught a few waves and offered to switch boards with me. The cool part was that I got to sit and rest on the board for a while and watch dolphins swim around me.
Wave #2: My timing was way off, but I did manage to get a knee up on the board. Unfortunately, I wasn't paddling fast enough and the wave passed me by.
Wave #3: Pretty much the same as last time, but I managed to get both feet on the board (while still clinging to it with my hands). I'm not sure if I could have stood up or not, but by the time I even thought about it the wave was already gone because I again wasn't moving fast enough.
Wave #4: Not only was I so exhausted that I couldn't paddle fast enough, but when I went to lift myself into a standing position my arms just wouldn't do it.
So, misogi, misogi, misogi. I'll get it eventually.
After the surfing, I tried to nap but couldn't. Probably thinking too much about surfing. I took Venus for a walk and then went shopping for snowboarding pants (going in a couple weeks).
I met up with some friends for dinner and then we went to a concert sponsored by the local public radio station KCRW. Check out the lineup: Goldspot, Feist, Sia (of Zero 7), Gomez, Britt Daniel (of Spoon), Ben Harper (with a guest appearance by Ziggy Marley), Franz Ferdinand, and Death Cab for Cutie. I may have even forgotten someone because it was a HUGE show. Everyone pretty much rocked. Any 2 or 3 of them would have made for an amazing show. Unfortunately, I was so sleep deprived and exhausted from surfing that morning that I couldn't really appreciate the last couple of bands. I was nodding off.
On Sunday, I decided that the Christians are on to something with the whole "rest on Sunday" thing.